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Jewellery
( Jewelry in American spelling) comprises
ornamental objects worn by persons, typically made with gems
and precious
metals. Costume
jewellery is made from less valuable materials. However,
jewellery can and has been made out of almost every kind of
material.
The word is derived from the word "jewel",
which was anglicised
from the Old French "jouel" in around the 13th
century. Further tracing leads back to the Latin word
"jocale", meaning plaything.
Some cultures have a practice of keeping
large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Jewellery
can also be symbolic, as in the case of Christians
wearing a crucifix
in the form of jewellery, or, as is the case in many Western
cultures, married
people wearing a wedding
ring.
Jewellery in various forms has been made
and worn by both sexes in almost every (if not every) human
culture, on every inhabited continent. Personal adornment
seems to be a basic human tendency.
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Jewellery,
particularly when made with precious materials, is generally
considered valuable and desirable. A variety of precious gemstones,
coins or other precious items can be used, often set into
precious metals. Common metals used for jewellery include
gold,
platinum
or silver.
Most gold alloys used in jewellery range from 10K to 22K gold,
while platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0%
pure). The silver used in jewellery is often sterling
silver.
Common gemstones that are used include diamonds,
rubies,
sapphires,
emeralds,
and opals.
Dozens more are also commonly used.
Other commonly used materials include glass,
such as fused glass or enamel;
wood,
often carved or turned; shells
and other natural animal substances such as bone
and ivory;
and natural clay
and plasticine clays, such as polymer
clay.
Beads
are commonly used in jewellery. These may be made of many
different substances including glass, gemstones, wood, shells,
clay and polymer clay. Beaded
jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets, earrings,
and belts. Beads may be large or small. The smallest type
of beads commonly used are known as seed
beads; these are the beads used for the "woven"
style of beaded jewellery.
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Maintaining
a clean diamond can sometimes be difficult, as jewelry settings
can obstruct cleaning efforts, and oils, grease, and other
hydrophobic
materials adhere well to a diamond's surface. Some jewellers
provide their customers with sudsy ammonia cleaning kits.
Some other jewellers sell small ultrasonic cleaners. Home-based
cleaning methods include immersing the diamond in ammonia-based
or ethyl
alcohol-based solutions, or even a solution of mild grease
dissolving detergent
and warm water.
Cleaning can damage some jewelry. For example,
some class rings are coated with a dark pigment to reduce
their shininess. Ultrasonic cleaning can remove this coating.
Also, many gems (such as emerald
and pearl)
are soft or porous. Cleaning agents can erode or infiltrate
these gems. Ultrasonic cleaning is also contraindicated for
opals,
tanzanite,
amber,
and any gemstone that reveals a high degree of internal fractures.
Examination prior to cleaning is a good practice as ultrasonic
cleaning is an aggressive method.
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A clean diamond is more brilliant and fiery
than the same diamond when it is "dirty". Dirt or
grease on the top of a diamond reduces its luster. Water,
dirt, or grease on the bottom of a diamond interferes with
the diamond's brilliance and fire. Even
a thin film absorbs some light that could have been reflected
to the person looking at the diamond.
Colored dye or smudges can affect the perceived
color of a gem. Historically, some jewellers' diamonds were
misgraded due to smudges on the girdle, or dye on the culet.
Current practice is to thoroughly clean a gem before grading
its color as well as clarity.
Cleanliness does not affect the jewelry's
market value, as jewellers routinely clean jewelry before
offering it for sale. However, cleanliness might reflect the
jewelry's sentimental value: some jewellers have noted a correlation
between ring cleanliness and marriage quality.
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Costume
jewelry is jewelry that is made of less valuable
materials, including base metals, glass, plastic, and synthetic
stones, in place of more valuable materials such as precious
metals and gems. These items are usually, but not always,
inexpensive, and often flashy.
Coco Chanel set the trend during her years
as a designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold
and faux pearls.
Costume jewelry gets its name from its use
in stage costumes. See fashion jewelry
Pennino Brothers Jewelry is one rare, but
well known brand of costume jewelry. Country Dutchess is a
modern brand of costume jewelry.
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Although
jewellery is made of metal, gold is one of the softer more
malleable metals with silver being even softer yet. This means
that the shank of your ring can wear thin, the claws holding
your stones can wear down, and links on a necklace can weaken
and break. Here we will provide a few tips on how to help
prevent damage to your jewellery or loss of a stone.
Prevent the rubbing or hitting of rings on other hard substances.
Unless you have a Titanium or even Platinum
ring you should avoid rubbing against any other metals or
hard surfaces. Gold and Silver are both softer metals and
it will wear them down. Taking your rings off when working
with your hands can help keep the shank strong.
Do not wear necklaces to bed.
As we move and shift in our sleep so does
that necklace we are wearing. As the links are rubbing against
each other they can slowly wear themselves down. While the
effects are usually not visually noticeable, it can cause
the necklace to break easier than it would have in more places
than just one. If you're finding you're having to take your
chain to get soldered quite often it's more likely that your
chain is breaking in multiple places and not that the goldsmith
who soldered it back together did a shoddy job. Again if you
are having a problem with your necklace breaking often do
not wear it to bed. Another reason not to would be that it
is easy to have it catch on something without you knowing.
Avoid cleaning solutions.
When cleaning, removal of your rings is recommended.
Even mild cleaning solutions could possibly have a light corrosive
ingredient that may not hurt your skin but will slowly eat
away at your rings. You also might want to avoid cleaning
solutions with your jewellery because some can cause chemical
reactions that will make your jewellery discolor your skin.
Some make-up and perfumes have also been known to cause this
effect when combined with the alloys present in gold.
Everyday wear...
If wearing multiple bracelets, necklaces,
bangles and the such it is not wise to wear them on a daily
basis. While they are next to each other as you move they
rub against each other and are causing wear. Even deciding
to wear your collection once a week opposed to every day could
potentially decrease future repair work 7-fold.
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Brand
new jewellery is always shining and brilliant. After a few
months of wear it tends to lose this brilliance. Some reasons
include hand-lotion giving it a dull coating, food juices
and greases obscuring the shine, or perhaps it simply collected
a few tiny scratches. For whatever the reason, that shiny
brilliance is easy to bring back.
Soap and a Soft Toothbrush.
The simplest method of home-cleaning is with
an un-scented hand soap and a soft bristle tooth brush. With
warm soapy water simply brush away with the soft tooth brush.
This should remove a good amount of any filmy build-up and
let the gold glisten again.
Store bought Jewellery Cleaner.
Jewellery cleaner such as what Independent
Jewellers offers is generally in-expensive and lasts a long
time. A little more effective than the soap and soft tooth
brush method. As per instructions on the Gold Jewellery cleaner
bottle
"Simply put jewellery into dip basket and soak it for
about a minute, use brush to take out dirt trapped under set
stones, rinse, dry, and wear. For stubborn dirt, soak longer"
There are different cleaners available for Gold, Silver, and
Pearls. You should only use the cleaner specifically designed
for the type of jewellery you intend to clean.
Ultra-Sonic Machine.
Your local Jewellery store should have one.
The Ultra-sonic machine is the best method of cleaning jewellery,
getting the smallest crevices with ultra-sonic vibrations.
In addition to the Ultra-sonic, if you have many little scratches
on your jewellery you may want to consider asking your local
Jeweller if you can get your rings Buffed as well. This in
combination with the Ultra-sonic will make the most worn jewellery
appear in an almost brand-new condition.
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Gold
Technology - published by World gold Council, this technology
magazine is published 3 times per year and contains articles
by leading experts and practitioners on gold jewellery materials
and manufacturing technology and best practice. An index of
articles is published in issue no 32, Summer 2001 (which is
available on this website). Early issues contain many basic
articles on basic metallurgy by Mark Grimwade and Alloy Data
Sheets for the common carat gold alloys. All papers presented
at the World Gold Council International Technology Symposia
in Vicenza, Italy, are published in Gold Technology. Full
reports of papers presented at each Santa Fe Symposium are
also published.
This journal is available in English and
Italian with early issues also available in German. Arabic
editions are available from the World Gold Council Dubai office.
Copies of articles can be obtained from World Gold Council
London and sets of back issues can be purchased. Currently,
recent issues are on the World Gold Council website under
the jewellery field. It is planned that all back issues will
eventually be added. A complete set of Gold Technology is
a very useful reference source.
World Gold Council also publishes a scientific
journal, Gold Bulletin, which has occasional articles relating
to jewellery technology. |
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